Western New York wineries adapt as Americans drink less wine

BUFFALO, N.Y. — Wine consumption across the country is changing, and that's creating new challenges for New York's wine industry. For local winegrowers, this shift could have a lasting impact on the future of New York wine. The people who grow the grapes are feeling the pressure from fewer orders and higher labor and production costs. However, not every wine region in New York is experiencing the same challenges.

For Western New York's wine industry, Perfetto Vineyards owner Carlo Perfetto said the challenge isn't just producing the wine; it's finding people who want to buy the bottles.

“I've seen it personally," said Perfetto. "When I'm out to dinner, I see what's at people's table in terms of what they're drinking. And I've noticed a distinct reduction in wine drinking.”

Perfetto grows grapes in Niagara County, and said he's feeling the slowdown before the wine even reaches the bottle. At the same time, his costs are going up.

“My labor costs have gone up at least 15 to 20% this year," said Perfetto.

It's not just labor. Perfetto said warmer, more humid conditions are also increasing the risk of disease, leading to more insecticide spraying and higher expenses.

“It’s something I love to do," said Perfetto. "But it’s something that has increased my cost significantly the last few years.”

At Bella Rose Vineyard and Winery, owner Nichael Schweitzer said the drop is showing up on both sides of the business.

“In general, wholesale is definitely taking the biggest hit," said Schweitzer. "We're also seeing a little bit of a decline in people coming out to the wineries.”

He estimated the local wine industry is down about 20 to 30%, and said national numbers are higher at about 40%. So, wineries are having to change what they offer.

“Local artists, local musicians, 5K runs," said Schweitzer. "All of those kinds of activities really help draw customers out to the winery, so they can see the view and have the great wines from the Niagara wine region.”

But there's an important contrast just a few hours away. In the Finger Lakes, Bruce Murray of Boundary Breaks Vineyard said visitation is up compared to before the pandemic.

“We are up 40 to 50% from there," said Murray. "Now, I would say that's leveled off. We are not seeing growth rates like 40 to 50% every year.”

Back in Niagara County, Schweitzer, who is also the president of the Niagara Wine Trail, said the future may depend on how they adapt.

“There needs to be a shift in focus as to what we're doing, or there's going to be generational wineries that will no longer exist," said Schweitzer. "And we’re starting to see that already.”

For these local growers and winemakers, the hope is that New Yorkers' tastes — and their appetite for wine — will eventually return. But until then, they said survival may depend on more than what's inside the bottle.